Angraecum germinyanum also known as Germiny's Angraecum.
Synonyms:
Angraecum bathiei
Angraecum ramosum subsp. bidentatum
Angraecum ramosum var. bathiei
Angraecum ramosum var. peracuminatum
Mystacidium germinyanum
It is a species of the genus Angraecum. This species was described by Joseph Dalton Hooker in 1889. Angraecum germinyanum is found in Madagascar, where it grows epiphytic on trees at elevations of 1000 to 2000 meters. It is a small to medium sized, pendant to scandent, cool to cold growing, monopodial epiphyte. Germiny's Angraecum blooms in the spring and summer with a wiry, 1.9 cm long, single flowered inflorescence that carries a solitary, fragrant, long-lasting, non-resupinate flower. The flowers are large, waxy, white, with a disproportionately large lip in the form of a sea shell and a very long spur.
Light:
Angraecum germinyanum loves bright sunlight and is able to tolerate direct morning and evening sun, however, in the hot summer noon (especially on windows of southern orientation) the orchid should be protected from direct sunlight: put behind a curtain (for example, on a table near the window) or in the shade of other plants, otherwise the plant can get a sunburn.
Temperature:
This kind of orchid refers to a moderate temperature regime, however, the best results of an orchid show with a moderately cold content. It is recommended that plants be kept under the following temperature conditions throughout the year: Day temperature at 18-24°C; Night temperature at 14-18°C. For the successful cultivation at home, it is necessary that the night temperature of the contents is always at least 4°C lower than the daytime temperature.
Humidity:
Germiny's Angraecum need the humidity of 60-65% (ideally 70-80%). Too dry air negatively affects the overall development of the plant - its growth is inhibited, roots begin to dry out, and the leaves become flabby and turn yellow.
Substrate, growing media and repotting:
Angraecum germinyanum can grow in pots and hanging lattice baskets, and placed on blocks. As a substrate, a mixture of bark of coniferous trees with charcoal is best. When growing orchids on blocks to prevent rapid drying of the root system of the plant, it is recommended to make a small interlayer of moss between it and the block. Above the roots, you can also put live or dry sphagnum. This orchid reacts negatively enough to repotting and can not bloom after 1-2 years, therefore it is recommended to replant the plant only when it is really necessary. For example, in cases of severe salinization or compaction of a substrate, too high or low pH, etc. The best time for transplantation is the spring period.
Watering:
Watering this kind of orchids directly depends on the total temperature of the content, the higher it is, the more often and abundant it will be necessary to water. Plants growing on blocks should be watered daily in the morning, so that by evening the roots of the orchids could dry out relatively well. When watering orchids in pots, it is necessary to remember that excess water during watering should flow freely out of the pot, as the stagnation of water both inside the pot and in its pallet can very quickly lead to rotting of the roots and the lower part of the plant. The substrate between waterings should dry well.
Fertilizer:
During the new growth period, this type of orchid is fertilized once every 2-3 weeks in 1/2 or 1/4 of the fertilizer concentration indicated on the package. In addition to the usual root top dressing, it is also recommended to produce a foliar dressing, when a very much diluted fertilizer is sprayed on the outer part of the plant. It is best to feed the orchid, alternating both these methods. The best fertilizer is fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts, for example, NPK = 3-3-3 or 8-8-8. If you do not have such fertilizer, then at the beginning of the growing season (the appearance of new leaves), feed the orchid fertilizer with a large content of nitrogen, and a little later - fertilizer with a higher content of phosphorus.
Rest period:
Angraecum germinyanum does not need a period of rest to stimulate flowering. After flowering, the peduncles are removed, cutting them to the very base, if necessary, the orchid is transplanted and kept completely dry for some time. This is necessary to acclimatize the plant and to prevent rotting of the roots from the transplant.